2003 MadFish Chardonnay Tasting Notes

The best fruit set conditions for several years were experienced across the South West of Western Australia in late 2003 giving rise to bigger fuller bunches of early setting varieties such as Chardonnay for the 2004 season. The early part of the growing season was difficult with intermittent periods of rain and cloud cover causing some early infections of Botrytis cineria in some Chardonnay blocks. The middle and latter parts of the season were very good with dry sunny weather and the early incidences of disease dried up on the vine and caused no negative quality impact at harvest. 

Select batches of Chardonnay were fermented in about 50% new and 50% one and two year-old French barriques. About 10% of the barrels were lees stirred weekly, developing savoury textural characters. The remaining barriques were sulphured preserving their freshness and finer structure, and also preventing the occurrence of malo-lactic fermentation.
The wine, blended in February 2003, displays an attractive balance between finer Great Southern chardonnay and richer fruit from the slightly warmer regions.

The 2003 MadFish Chardonnay is a classic exponent of the ‘modern’ style of wooded Chardonnay. The aroma and flavour spectrum is more in the pear and citrus spectrum than the peach and stone fruit spectrum of Chardonnays of five years ago; the wine structure is lighter and fresher with cleaner, crisper mouthfeel than the Chardonnays of earlier years. Fermentation in barrel has introduced a cashew nut complexity. The palate is well integrated with an initial burst of tropical fruit balanced by a more textural and savoury, rich mid-palate and a long clean grapefruit finish. This is a very good wine, full of class and elegance that will complement the fresh flavours of today’s cuisine.

This wine will develop further over the next 3 to 5 years, but has an appealing combination of fruit, structure and complexity that is best enjoyed in its youth.